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A — Dryer error codes

Whirlpool Dryer Error Codes
Lookup & Diagnostics

All known error codes for Whirlpool dryers — what each code means, self-check steps, and when to call an experienced technician.

92 Error codes
93 Service areas
126 Models covered
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B — Dryer error codes

Whirlpool dryer fault codes.

92 codes
Bad Odor
Persistent odor — a missing charcoal filter, residue buildup, or skipped deodorizer maintenance.
Trash Compactor →
Burner Will Not Light
Surface burner fails to ignite — clogged igniter ports, a weak spark module, or interrupted gas supply.
Cooktop →
CF
Communication fault: the main control board has lost communication with a secondary board such as the dispenser or display.
Refrigerator →
Controls Dead
Buttons unresponsive — tripped power, a failed control board, or a wiring fault.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
Controls Unresponsive
Touch controls dead or frozen — control lock engaged, moisture on the panel, or a failed control board.
Cooktop →
Cracked Glass Surface
Cracked ceramic-glass top — impact or thermal stress that exposes live elements and needs immediate shutoff.
Cooktop →
dE
Defrost system failure: the auto-defrost cycle did not complete in time, so frost is building on the evaporator and restricting airflow.
Refrigerator →
Drawer Will Not Latch
Drawer will not latch closed — a bent track, broken latch, or a misaligned drawer.
Trash Compactor →
Element Will Not Heat
Radiant element stays cold — a failed element, burnt-out receptacle, or faulty infinite switch.
Cooktop →
F0E1
Cooktop spark igniter fault, from no spark, a shorted electrode, or a damaged igniter wire.
Range →
F0E1
Load is too large or unbalanced to spin safely.
Washer →
F0E2
Stuck or continuously active key detected during the power-on startup scan, distinct from the mid-operation F2E0.
Oven →
F0E2
Abnormal current in a surface element or burner relay circuit, and a stuck-closed relay is a fire hazard.
Range →
F0E5
Excessive suds detected — the washer paused to let the foam clear.
Washer →
F1E0
Control board cannot communicate with its internal EEPROM, so calibration and configuration data cannot be read or written.
Oven →
F1E0
EEPROM checksum mismatch or corruption on the electronic range control, leaving stored calibration invalid.
Range →
F1E1
Main control board has an internal failure.
Dryer →
F1E1
Control board temperature sensor has failed.
Dishwasher →
F1E1
Checksum mismatch or corruption in the control board memory, so stored parameters no longer match expected values.
Oven →
F1E1
ERC watchdog timer expired because the processor stopped responding to its self-check.
Range →
F1E3
Motor control unit is not responding and the drum stops turning.
Dryer →
F2E0
Continuously pressed or shorted key on the membrane keypad, detected during operation.
Oven →
F2E0
Continuously closed or stuck key on the keypad membrane, from a physical jam, membrane damage, or a shorted ribbon cable.
Range →
F2E1
Keypad button is stuck pressed.
Dryer →
F2E1
A keypad button is stuck continuously pressed.
Dishwasher →
F2E2
UI board is not recognized by the installed software.
Dryer →
F3E0
Open-circuit signal from the bake temperature sensor (RTD probe), meaning the sensor failed or its wiring is broken.
Oven →
F3E1
Exhaust thermistor is reading an open circuit.
Dryer →
F3E1
Water temperature sensor is reading an open circuit.
Dishwasher →
F3E1
Oven temperature sensor (RTD probe) is reading an open circuit, so the board disables bake, broil, and the gas valve.
Range →
F3E1
Temperature sensor is reading out of range.
Washer →
F3E2
Inlet thermistor is reading shorted and the heater is cut.
Dryer →
F3E2
Short in the meat probe circuit, with resistance reading below about 400 ohms.
Oven →
F3E2
Oven temperature sensor is shorted, so the board reads an impossibly high temperature and locks out heating.
Range →
F3E2
Moisture sensor is out of range on combo washer-dryer models.
Washer →
F4E1
Heater relay is stuck and the board cannot control the heater.
Dryer →
F4E3
Heating element has an open circuit and no heat is produced.
Dryer →
F5E0
Door latch motor failed to lock in the expected time, so the self-clean cycle cannot start.
Oven →
F5E1
Cannot confirm the door is latched.
Dishwasher →
F5E1
Latch motor failed to return the latch to unlocked after self-clean, leaving the door stuck locked.
Oven →
F5E1
Door latch switch is not confirming the locked position for self-clean, or is reporting locked when the door is open.
Range →
F5E1
Cannot detect the door or lid as closed and latched.
Washer →
F5E2
Washer door lock failed to lock or unlock in time.
Washer →
F6E1
No water is entering the tub.
Dishwasher →
F6E2
Main board lost communication to the UI board.
Dryer →
F6E3
UI board stopped communicating to the main control board.
Dryer →
F6E4
Anti-flood sensor detected water in the base.
Dishwasher →
F7E1
Heating element is not drawing the expected current.
Dishwasher →
F7E1
Motor is not confirming the commanded spin speed.
Washer →
F7E5
Washer shifter could not switch between agitate and spin.
Washer →
F8E1
Water fill is taking too long to complete.
Washer →
F8E1
Filled with some water, but not enough to run the cycle.
Dishwasher →
F8E3
Water level rose too high and overflow protection activated.
Washer →
F9E0
Control is not receiving a closed-door signal from the interlock switch even though the door appears shut, so the oven will not heat.
Oven →
F9E0
Safety-critical gas valve relay fault, where the oven gas valve relay failed to open the valve or is stuck closed.
Range →
F9E1
Water is taking too long to drain out.
Washer →
F9E1
Failed to drain within the time limit.
Dishwasher →
Fan Will Not Run
Blower motor will not spin — a failed motor, seized bearings, or a faulty speed switch.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
Frost Buildup
Excess frost on walls and coils — a failed defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or a leaking door seal.
Freezer →
Grease Filter Issues
Grease filter problems — a saturated or warped filter restricting airflow and risking buildup.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
HI
High-temperature warning: the fresh-food or freezer temperature has risen well above the set point from a cooling failure or a prolonged open door.
Refrigerator →
Ice Tastes or Smells Bad
Off-tasting ice — an old water filter, stale storage, or absorbed freezer odors.
Ice Maker →
Induction Not Detecting Pan
Induction zone will not recognize cookware — non-magnetic pans, an undersized base, or a pan-detection sensor fault.
Cooktop →
Leaking Water
Water leaking from the maker — a misaligned fill cup, cracked water line, or a faulty inlet valve.
Ice Maker →
Leaking Water
Water leaking from the unit — a cracked water line, failed inlet valve, or an overfilled reservoir.
Ice Machine →
Lights Out
Hood lights will not illuminate — burnt bulbs, a failed socket, or a bad light switch.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
LO
Low-temperature warning: the fresh-food temperature dropped below the safe lower threshold, risking produce freezing.
Refrigerator →
Low or Slow Ice
Reduced ice output — low water pressure, a partially clogged filter, or a weak water inlet valve.
Ice Maker →
Motor Hums, No Movement
Motor hums without moving — a seized gearbox, jammed ram, or a failed start capacitor.
Trash Compactor →
No Ice Production
Machine produces no ice — a water-supply fault, failed inlet valve, or a control-board failure.
Ice Machine →
Noisy Operation
Rattling or loud running — an unbalanced blower wheel, worn motor bearings, or loose mounting.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
Not Draining
Bin water will not drain — a clogged drain line, failed drain pump, or a kinked hose.
Ice Machine →
Not Freezing
Compartment will not reach temperature — a failed compressor, low refrigerant, or a stuck defrost system.
Freezer →
Not Making Ice
No ice produced — a frozen fill line, failed water inlet valve, or a stalled ice-maker module.
Ice Maker →
Not Running At All
Unit completely dead — a tripped outlet, failed start relay, or a defective compressor.
Freezer →
PC
Compressor circuit error: the control board detected a compressor circuit fault such as overcurrent, a start-relay failure, or the compressor not responding.
Refrigerator →
PO
Power-outage alert: the refrigerator lost power long enough for compartment temperatures to rise, so it logs the event for a food-safety check.
Refrigerator →
Ram Stuck Down
Ram jammed in the down position — an overloaded bin, a foreign object, or a failed directional switch.
Trash Compactor →
Running Constantly
Compressor never cycles off — dirty condenser coils, a worn door gasket, or a faulty thermostat.
Freezer →
Slow Ice Harvest
Long or stalled harvest cycle — a warm condenser, failed harvest motor, or low refrigerant.
Ice Machine →
Small or Hollow Cubes
Undersized or hollow cubes — low water supply, a clogged filter, or incorrect fill timing.
Ice Maker →
Surface Element Stays On
Element will not switch off — welded relay contacts or a shorted infinite switch holding power on.
Cooktop →
SY CE
System communication error between the main board and a secondary module such as the ice maker control, damper, or sensor board.
Refrigerator →
SY EF
Evaporator fan fault: the control board detected a fault in the evaporator fan circuit, so cold air cannot be distributed.
Refrigerator →
Thin or Cloudy Ice
Thin or cloudy cubes — scale buildup, low water flow, or a dirty water system needing descaling.
Ice Machine →
Too Cold / Over-Freezing
Temperature drops below the setpoint — a stuck thermostat, shorted control board, or a damper stuck open.
Freezer →
Unit Not Cooling
Evaporator will not get cold — low refrigerant, a failed compressor, or a dirty condenser.
Ice Machine →
Water Leaking
Water pooling inside or on the floor — a clogged defrost drain or a cracked drain pan.
Freezer →
Weak Suction
Poor airflow — a clogged grease filter, blocked duct, or a worn blower wheel.
Range Hood & Vent Hood →
Will Not Compact
Motor runs but nothing compacts — a broken drive chain, stripped gear, or a slipping power screw.
Trash Compactor →
Will Not Start
Compactor will not run — an interlock switch, an unlatched drawer, or a failed start switch.
Trash Compactor →
Will Not Stop Making Ice
Bin overflows with ice — a stuck shutoff arm or a failed bin-level sensor.
Ice Maker →
Whirlpool dryer error codes (F4E3, F4E1, F3E1, F1E1)

How a Whirlpool dryer reports a fault

A Whirlpool dryer with an electronic control reports genuine F#E# fault codes, written F-then-E, across the WED electric and WGD gas families. Heat, sensor, motor and control faults each have their own code, and reading it points an experienced technician at a specific part before anything is replaced.

The codes you will see

F4E3 means an open heating element — one of the most common no-heat codes — and F4E1 a heater relay stuck open or closed, which can be a fire risk. F3E1 is an open exhaust thermistor (often a blocked vent) and F3E2 a shorted inlet thermistor. F1E1 is a main control-board failure and F1E3 a motor-control fault that can leave the drum stationary while heat runs. F2E1 is a stuck keypad button and F2E2 a UI-board mismatch. F6E2 and F6E3 are communication errors between the main and UI boards.

What to check, and when to call

Clean the full vent path and lint screen first — restricted airflow drives most no-heat and long-cycle codes, including F3E1. If you see F4E1 and the dryer runs very hot, take it out of service. A recurring element (F4E3), relay (F4E1), thermistor (F3) or control (F1E1) code needs an experienced, independent technician with the correct genuine OEM part. See the dryer error codes page or the error codes library, then book dryer repair.

C — Need help?

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error code?

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